Sunday, April 14, 2013

Peru Spring 2013 Day 11


We woke up sort of early to have breakfast before we were supposed to drive out of town to another city where we would see some mummies from ancient times however after we ate and got in the van we found the main road to our destination blocked up with traffic. There was a rock slide earlier in the morning and it caused a giant boulder to block the road in both directions and they were trying to get it moved out of the way.  There had been several days of significant rain just around Easter and we had already seen the evidence of several recent rockslides along the roads both paved and dirt so in some respects it wasn’t a surprise. Ivan, the driver/guide, said we should wait until 10 and if the traffic wasn’t moving we should give up and do the Gocta hike.  After waiting the amount of time with no movement we decided to turn around back to the lodge and start the Gocta hike.

We got back to the room and changed to more hiking appropriate clothes. We rented some rubber boots because they said the trails would be very muddy and would ruin our shoes. We got geared up and headed on our way straight from the lodge.  Our guide was named Leonce and he only spoke Spanish really though we taught him some along the way towards the end of the trip.

The hike to Gocta Falls is 5 kilometers out and the same 5 back from the lodge (I suspect it is a bit further as I think the tracking starts from a different location than our lodge but I could be wrong). It was a bit cloudy and it rained lightly for a portion of the way out to the falls. We had to don plastic ponchos provided by the guide during one stretch of rain.  The guide told us about the history and legend of Gocta Falls along the way as well as pointing out plants and other things along the way. He was a very good and patient guide as we didn’t really move very fast though the ups and downs of the trail.

The story as he said it is that Gocta Falls was discovered by a German economist out on a hiking trip with his girlfriend in 2002. The guy was trying to take a shortcut through an area to another when he came across the falls. In speaking with the locals he found out that they all believed that the falls were haunted by an evil mermaid that protect a large amount of treasure at the bottom of the pool at the base of the falls.  I have taken pictures of the story simply translated to English about Grigorio and the Mermaid and will transcribe it and add it to the blog at a later point. The story meant that the locals were all scared of the falls and would stay very far away from it. There are other stories to go along with it such as men trying to dive to the bottom of the pool to recover the treasure and of course never surfacing.

In 2006 the German along with a series of volunteers came back and the verified along with the Peruvian cultural ministry that the site should be made into a tourist destination. So it hasn’t been open for very long. They needed to convince the locals to switch from farming for very little amounts of money into a tourism oriented trade.  So with a couple years of work the locals started to embrace the idea and they built the trail we took. 

The trail travels up and down in several stretches and arrives to the base of the second tier of the falls (the larger tier).  The falls are broken into an upper and lower tier with two landing points.  By the time we arrived at the falls it was not really raining anymore. We ate a quick lunch of cheese sandwiches and an apple and candy bar at a scenic point in front of the falls then I took the waterproof camera down into it and got very close and took a bunch of pictures. The force of these falls was much greater than the force of the falls we went to in Iceland except maybe for Gulflos (but we weren’t at the bottom of those falls).  The height is 504 meters and it was absolutely spectacular.  A few minutes later Daniela came down and joined me.  We wandered as close as she would dare. The force did scare her a little bit.  After being down there for a few minutes we climbed back up to the guide at the scenic point and started the trek back.  Along the way a creature related to a sloth but not slow came out of the trees but I didn’t have the camera ready and we missed getting pictures before it ran into the woods. Leonce said it wasn’t a monkey because it didn’t scream. The sun came out during the return hike and we got back to the room late in the afternoon. 

We took much needed showers after we were done then ordered our dinner and relaxed until 7:30 when we went to eat (passed out is a better term).  I had the meat lasagna today because they didn’t have the pork loin I wanted and started with a criole soup that was different from the ones I had already. Both were good but the lasagna wasn’t heated up enough unfortunately.  Daniela had sauted noodles with some lomo in them which makes it sort of like a Chinese/Peruvian fusion dish.  She had a chicken and ginger soup to start.  We both had brownies with chocolate ice cream for dessert. She had a tea and I had a coffee.

After dinner we went back to the room looked at the pictures from the trip then crashed as we were both exhausted.

The pictures from today are found here.

The pictures from the waterproof camera can be found here.

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