Started off the morning a bit early because I forgot, even though told by the front desk, that Sweden was changing it’s hour back today for Daylight Savings Time. That said I was pretty much ready to be away by what turned out to be 5am instead of 6am. I took my time getting ready however because I didn’t need to be to the train station until 8:10.
The morning had a brisk breeze and it was obvious it was going to rain somewhere along the way but I arrived to the train station unscathed but a bit early for the train. I wasn’t sure which track I needed because the ticket didn’t have it published so I guessed I would be best served arriving early and scouting things out. Turns out I needed track 10 right off the main hall, very easy to find. With that sorted out I had an Egg McMuffin and coffee at McDonald’s (the only other place that appeared to be open was Café Ritazza which I have had in England and couldn’t stand their coffee). When I was done it was pretty much time to board the train.
The irony here of course is that first class tickets apparently come with a meal for the full journey at least. So not long after getting on our way to Göteborg (pronounced Gothenberg) I was handed a second breakfast in which I only ate the fruit and yogurt and drank the orange juice. The coffee was rather nasty and I wouldn’t make that mistake again. The train was an X2000 which is Sweden’s version of the bullet train. I could tell it was moving very fast because it was impossible to focus on anything outside at all and I even eventually got motion sick a bit. I chose to nod off as best I could and the 3 hour plus ride was eaten away without much ado except that they ended up being 25 minutes late. The people on the train thought this might be an issue for my connecting bus to Kungälv and wrote all over my ticket how I was late on the train and to please let me on the bus I found. It turns out I waved the ticket in front of the guy and he just nodded me in (this worked on the way back too when I was supposed to be on a later bus).
When I arrived at the Kungälv stop I was a tiny bit dismayed because there was literally nothing but a petrol station and a bus stop there. I found the map of the area and started trying to read it. Because the word Bohus was nowhere on it I was wondering if I had a lot further to go to get to the fortress I wanted to see but as I had given up reading the map and decided I would point in a direction and go I found I was staring dead at the fortress. This was the last day of the year it was open and the entry fee was reduced by 20 SEK because the all of the medieval events and actors and activities weren’t happening at this time of the year. I was fine with that. Of course once I got into the structure it decided it was time to rain and I dealt with light to medium rain the whole way through. I probably took a few less pictures than I normally would because of it but I did risk the camera overall and I really liked the place. I would think at some point a visit during the summer would be in order when they have the place going full tilt and the weather is a bit more cooperative. In any event I was happy with the visit and I think the 6 plus hours of train ride (there and back) were definitely worth it. It was a Norwegian fortress originally that was then taken over by the Danes, who eventually ceded it to Sweden under a treaty in the 1600s. It has been in Swedish hands since. The original structure was added to and during the 17 and 1800s the Swedes let it fall into disrepair and the locals were even allowed to take stones from it for use in building their own structures. In the very early 1900s they began a restoration and the main body of that work was done between 1920 and 1935. They halted work on it until after the war and most of the reconstruction since then appears to have been haphazardly done. They had a guided tour available but it was only in Swedish and most of the placards had an English text as well so was fine on my own. One thing that was really amazing was how few places one wasn’t allowed to tread on the grounds and I went to a lot of places that I’ve seen blocked off at other castles. Unfortunately the dungeon was sealed off as the current entrance was ladder down into it since the original door had been buried under and is not excavated.
On my way out as it neared 3pm I noticed the sign that said please leave before 3 because the gate will close then and it is the only way out… Of course I made it out but the weather was becoming less cooperative and I was pretty well drenched by this point. The kid at the booth didn’t speak English well so he couldn’t answer as to whether there was someplace to eat nearby. I decided a short wander was in order (though the area looked truly residential). Around the corner I found a hotel with a restaurant that had a Danish flag hanging outside and decided that was my place (it was really close). There I had a local lager that was pretty good and had 5% alcohol called Kungälvlager that had a picture of the fortress on the bottle, very touristy I am sure, but it was decent beer. It being Sunday there was a set menu with a dessert bar. I opted for a fish dish that apparently used a very mild but tasty wild fish poached and served with mushrooms and tomatoes and of course boiled potatoes. There was a cold salmon salad served as a starter. Both were very good though the starter worried me at first because I wasn’t in the mood for a cold meal until I realized it was the salad course. I did manage to clean the plates and had a second beer before sampling the dessert bar. I had a slice of apple cheesecake and small piece of blueberry cheesecake (I feel like I am doing the Scott dessert tour) and both were good. The coffee wasn’t bad and also warranted a second cup.
I felt sufficiently warmed and dried off by this point so I opted to head back to the bus stop and only had to wait a few minutes for the bus to show. As I said, I waved my ticket and got on though I was scheduled for a later bus. From there I got to the train station and found the ticket office where I was able to trade for a train heading back to Stockholm in mere minutes from when I sorted it out. I didn’t take the complimentary meal but had a can of citrus flavored sparkling water then tried to again nod off through most of the ride moderately successfully. Realizing this was Sunday I was hoping that O’Leary’s was open and showing American football (it is right on Central Station practically) but it didn’t appear that they were open or at least yet, though it was 9pm. Of course it was Sunday as well… The amusing thing is the place is Boston themed and they are supposed to be a sports bar so they have logos for all our teams painted on the entrance there, Red Sox, Patriots, Celtics and Bruins. Since it didn’t appear to be open and I was very tired I opted to return to the room and retire. The internet connection still wasn’t working on the third floor and I resolved to ask about it on Monday morning. My hope that the person on Monday morning would be more helpful about it than a weekend desk person. Should that be the case I hope the rest will be posted as they are written and I can get some pictures up as well.
I have posted day 2's pictures here.
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